Easily Excitable

Happy Saturday, folks! 

I’m typing part 2 of this Italy post from a decidedly NOT Italy locale.

Our cottage thermostat is currently showing a very cool 77 degrees Fahrenheit (not Celcius- again, not Italy). This is substantially cooler than the 82 degrees it danced across earlier when I began cooking spaghetti. 

It was from scratch, made straight from tomatoes. 

I tossed in some water from the pasta because this is the Italian way- apparently pasta water is liquid gold?? I’ve watched umpteen videos online of Nonnas (again, Italian grandmothers) cooking online. 

I’m trying to learn their ways. 

So, today’s journey? 

It will take you through Venice, Florence, and Amalfi Coast. 

To be honest, the back half of the trip was incredible, but because it was so fast, I had to draw heavily from pictures and Trey’s itinerary. 

If I get anything wrong, Trey will have opinions on it, and I may (definitely will not) edit this post in retrospect. The biggest thing you can know about all of these destinations? 

We lived our best lives in each. No regrets. Not a single one.

I don’t think I mentioned it in the first post, but while we were across the pond, Europe in its totality had the worst heat wave it’s had in decades. 

Now, to us Georgians? It was hot, for sure. But it lacked the angry humidity we’re used to.

I will say that the later-mentioned Venice was probably the hottest portion of the trip. But the fact that it’s on the water helped a lot. 

Here’s the back-half of the trip:

Venice

Venice Day 1

• Train to Florence, then to Venice
• Checked in with our AirBnb host
• Walked around the city + were astounded by the canals, as well as the Rialto Bridge and the San Marco Plaza
• Dinner at Ai 4 Feri Storti

Venice Day 2

• Explored Rialto Market
• Took a ferry to the Venetian islands, Burano and Torcello
• Lunch at Ristorante Galuppe in Burano
• Explored and hung out in Torcello
• Came back to Venice for aperitivo on restaurant overlooking the Venice canal
• Took a Gondola ride
• Picked up dinner and ate back at the AirBnb

Things to Note in Venice

1. There are no cars. 

You probably already know this. My Italian geography isn’t the best, so I was unaware. When I tell you that every bit of travel is by boat? Please believe me. 

We talked several times about the locals: whether growing up there prevents you from getting lost and whether you know the majority of folks who live there. 

Venice brings a lot of questions. It’s that far out of the scope of what’s normal for us Americans. 

I guess that a rite of passage for them is commandeering a boat. At one point, there was a 10 year old kid (I’m approximating) who hopped on a boat and got ready to take off. His father then told me he’d (the child) taken off somewhere he shouldn’t have recently, so he (the child) was on restriction. 

The child still took off in said-boat, unmooring it like a champ. 

Some things don’t change based on location, I guess?

2. Trust your host and a handwritten menu. 

Our AirBnb host was incredible. She texted Trey multiple recommendations. One took us to a small sidestreet wherein I asked for bread, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. 

This was no bueno. The waiter’s face told me I’d erred. 

When the menu was brought out, it was handwritten; we used Google Translate to some extent, but it didn’t help a whole lot. We ended up ordering a seafood + pasta dish that I still don’t know the translation for, but I do know was excellent. 

I’m confident there wasn’t a bad choice on the whole menu.

3. The fish markets are a wonder. 

We walked the Rialto fish market, and ‘fish market’ would be a disservice to it. There were fish, for sure, but there were also clams, mussels, octopi, squid, vegetables and fruits of every persuasion. 

All of it looked delicious. There were some of the prettiest tuna filets I’ve ever seen. There were whole fish packed on ice. I was fascinated.

4. The clothes situation. 

As I said in the last post, I was in charge of finding the AirBnbs. Venice was where this arrangement fell apart. 

I booked the AirBnb after looking specifically for a washing machine: this isn’t guaranteed in Italian homes, yet I saw this amenity in ours. 

Or so I thought. 

We were in desperate need of a washing machine after Rome and Tuscany. We didn’t find that in Venice. This was problematic as we were running low on important parts of our wardrobe. 

Trey Googled and found we could wash them in a sink with *small amounts of dishwashing soap.* We did just that. 

Considering the lack of AC in Europe (the trailer looks like Antarctica in comparison), it was a sweaty job. We lived, and the clothes were no worse for wear, either. 

5. The seafood in Venice is *chef’s kiss.*

Being that it’s on the water, it’s no surprise. But everything here is fresh-caught and fresh-cooked. 

If you’re a seafood aficionado, Venice is right up your alley. 

There were even some dishes that featured whole fish- head to tail. We didn’t try those because of time constraints, but what we did have was delicious. 

Florence

Florence Day 1

• Hustled to the Venice train station for an early train to Florence
• Arrived in Florence and ate a quick bite
• Stored our luggage in a handy facility
• Strolled all around Florence: explored the Duomo
• Walked to every historical site possible
• Explored Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens Giardino di Boboli
• Ate lunch
• Aperitivo at the View on Art Rooftop Cocktail Bar overlooking the Duomo
• Got our luggage, headed back to the AirBnb, and got ready for dinner
• Dinner at Regina Bistecca

Things to Note in Florence: 

1. There is an entire street dedicated to jewelry. 

Trey and I aren’t big shoppers. But if we were? Italy would be the perfect location for it.  Clothes-wise and jewelry-wise, our Italian shopping destination choice would have been Florence.

Designer brands of every persuasion? They all had storefronts there.

But the most startling turn was the turn onto (what I’ll call) Jewelry Row. Kind of like Fraternity Row in Athens, but classier.

For probably half a mile, it was a sparkling street. 

2. The steak was phenomenal. 

Shout out to my cousin Kathryn, who told us steak was the must-have in Florence. 

We went to a steakhouse for a late birthday celebration for Trey, and it was a standout meal. We ordered a shared item that included a tower of apps, which preceded a large T-bone steak. Our waitress cut it like it was her life’s work. 

The only way to order steak in Florence is rare. 

As one who likes her steak mooing? 

It was perfect. 

Amalfi Coast

Amalfi Coast Day 1

• Took a train to Naples, then took a private transfer headed to Amalfi
• Visited Pompeii
• Continued the drive to Praiano (where we were staying in Amalfi)
• Checked into the AirBnb
• One Fire Beach Club (I will explain this later- it was a situation)
• Stopped in for a bite at a cafe overlooking the coast
• Relaxed at the AirBnb
• Dinner at Trattoria San Gennaro

Amalfi Coast Day 2

• Hiked the Path of the Gods into Positano
• Visited a lemon slushie stand
• Arrived in Positano
• Ate at a cafe called Blu Bar Positano
• Sat on the beach 
• Ate dinner at Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle Positano
• Bused back to the AirBnb

Amalfi Coast- Day 3

• Bused over to the harbor in Positano
• Did a cruise around the coast
• Snorkeled, swam, relaxed on the boat, swam to a beach
• Swam into and explored some caves
• Lunch at Conca del Sogno
• Got back on the boat and continued exploring
• Swam onto Praiano and got ready at the AirBnb
• Dinner at Il Pirata Ristorante
• Watched Positano fireworks 

Amalfi Coast- Day 4

• Took a water taxi to Positano
• Ferried to Capri, then took a bus to Anacapri
• Took the Monte Solaro Chairlift over the island 
• Explored Anacapri, as well as Capri town
• Ferried back to Positano, then bussed back to Praiano
• Takeout from Ristorante La Strada

Amalfi Coast- Day 5

• Took a taxi to Ravello
• Explored the town (a highlight was Villa Cimbrone)
• Hiked down to Amalfi Town
• Explored
• Bused back to Praiano
• Dinner at Kasai

Things to Note in Amalfi Coast: 

1. The boat tour was the highlight. 

We splurged on a private boat tour. This was a suggestion from Trey’s travel agent, ChatGPT, and we were thrilled about this above all other excursions. 

We were so excited about this boat ride that we booked it before we even booked our plane tickets. It was an eight hour tour wherein you cruise around the coast of Amalfi, thereby getting the seaview of the islands. 

This was my personal favorite part of the trip. 

We jumped off a cliff into the water. We swam up to a beach and found a bunch of sea glass. We snorkeled and swam in a school of fish (Our favorite snorkeling spot was right off the coast of Jeff Bezos’ favorite vacation island, a place called Li Galli). We stopped for lunch. We floated in the sea. We cruised on the boat blaring music. 

It exceeded every expectation.

2. These beaches are not Florida beaches. 

I pictured Amalfi as having all-access, sandy beaches. This is not the case. This is not Amelia Island. 

Rather, the beaches are at the bottom of the cliffs.

They aren’t sandy: rather, they’re pebbly, which is strange to walk in when you grow up with sand (do I have to say here that I did *almost* faceplant into the pebbles while making my way out of the ocean? It was very Baywatch-esque). 

What’s more, Amalfi has ‘beach clubs,’ where you pay for chairs, an umbrella, and access to the water. 

We did cough up some euros for this because WHEN IN AMALFI, BABY. 

3. About those beach clubs…

Our first day there, after we met the host and got settled in the home where we were staying, Trey and I wandered down to Praiano’s beach club, thinking it would be a chill way to start the trip. 

It wasn’t. 

We wandered into a legitimate beach club that rivaled Macon’s famed clubs (circa 2010s) in ambiance. Considering it was called One Fire, the vibes made a lot of sense. Music was blaring, people were dancing, and we were left a little confused. This made Panama City Beach in the early 2000s look like a modest family getaway. 

We were both expecting more chill vibes, and there was no chill here. We sat and watched in wonder for a minute, then took our leave.

In our early twenties, this probably would have appealed to both of us, but we’re in a different decade now. We weren’t on the same level as these people (and never will be), and it was very obvious. 

4. The stairs here are no joke. 

If you are planning a trip to Amalfi Coast, good for you! It was my favorite place on the trip. However, you need to understand that this is a cliff region. These are cities literally built into the side of cliffs. Therefore, the stairs are pure insanity. 

Trey and I are both in good shape, but the stairs, specifically those on Praiano, just about took us out. They are straight up and relentless: just when you think you’ve arrived at your destination, you’ll turn and discover there are two more flights waiting for you. 

The first day we were there, on our way down to One Fire, we saw Americans stopping to take a breather. We both laughed to ourselves. We shouldn’t have.

Because guess which two Americans had to stop on the way back up IN THAT EXACT SPOT to catch their breath when they had to travel up those same stairs later in the day?

5. I was made for this color-scheme. 

There are no neutrals to be found anywhere in Amalfi. Everything is colorful: the flowers, the plants, the fruit, the clothes, the ceramics, the beach umbrellas. I love bright colors, so this was the spot for me. 

They also have the biggest ceramic factory in all of Italy here, so everything everywhere is ceramic. If I had the money, I’d joyfully fill the entire singlewide with Amalfi ceramics.  

On our last full day in Italy, we headed back to Rome. 

We took a train there, and both of us were feeling the exhaustion of the trip, as well as the mourning of having to leave at this point. 

We spent the last day of the trip walking Rome, as well as rehashing the trip. 

We tracked back to all the historical sites to see them one last time before eating dinner on a garden patio close to our AirBnb. 

It was still astounding to walk around the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, Constantine’s Arch- all of the places we went on the first day of the trip. 

We caught a ride the next morning, and we made our way out of Italy. 

Basically? We left it all on the field in Italy. 

We did everything we set out to do: we explored, we ate, we laughed, we made friends, and we took pictures of most (some?) of it. 

There was nothing we would have done differently. I would go back in a heartbeat. It was the trip of a lifetime. 

The pictures and my descriptions won’t do it justice, but thank you for following along while I gave it a good attempt!